A place for current and future students of trouser making, esp. those following the techniques and ideas of David Page Coffin, and the many examples in his multimedia workshop in a book/DVD package, Making Trousers, to gather for previews, announcements and discussion. Welcome!

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Wonderful resources

This morning's email brought in some exceptional links; must share.

The first batch (thanks to Janet John) are fabric sources, all in the UK but all online of course, so definitely of potential use to sewers anywhere who can't get the often arcane stuff we want locally:

www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk

www.englishcouture.co.uk

Both of these outfits have a wide range of offerings, but it's their interfacings and interlinings that are especially note-worthy.
MacCulloch & Wallis include listings for 4 (!) different types of neck-tie canvas, including a rare 100% wool expressly for neck ties, as well as a presumably softer all-wool interlining that's equally hard to find, at least in the States, and if it's anything like what used to be widely available here under that description, also works very well inside soft ties.



Obviously, this will be of most interest to neck-tie makers and owners of my little booklet on making ties, but this is just the tip of the iceberg that is MacCulloch & Wallis. They provide a spectacular range of millinery petershams, up to 72mm (nearly 3 in.!), which you'll learn in my trouser book is my #1 go-to waist lining/stiffener (I like the hard-to-find 50mm/2-in. stuff), a large variety of what looks like superb shirtings (for those ultra-deluxe trouser pocketings and linings), and an equally impressive stable of woolens and wool-silk blends.

English Couture, the creation of England's national fine-sewing treasure Terry Fox and now run by Michelle Pye, also offers a necktie canvas which appears similar to the Polyester/Viscose stuff available in the US, but again this is just a taste of their range. Terry is a master of both traditional (everything's stitched) and contemporary (everything's fused) tailoring and couture techniques, and she assembled an unmatched assortment of made-for-industry but tested-on-home-irons fusibles, including varieties that perfectly match the four purposes I detail in my book. Many of these interfacings are available in the US through Terry's pal Louise Cutting, at www.fabriccollections.com.

Then there's Acorn Fabrics (thanks again, Janet!), an amazing online shirting-fabric resource from an outfit that's both a weaver of exquisite shirtings and a retail source that will sell individual shirt-lengths; in fact there's "No minimum order." Astonishing. And their swatch photos are magnificent! What a concept: World-class goods and vast selection, swatches on demand, and all equally accessible to factories and hobbyists. Drool and learn at: www.acornfabrics.co.uk





Finally, there's this: An incredibly generous, detailed tailoring blog from Jeffery Diduch, at:

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/

Absolutely the best part of my super-cool job at Threads was finding, and then visiting, garment-makers who had both mastered their craft, and also felt compelled, and had the skills, to share their passion, often driven by a fervent wish to not let their skills disappear from our increasingly pre-fab culture. Jeffery Diduch is the very model of this rare type (by all means search the Threads index for the articles we did together; in issues 87 and 89), a committed and accomplished sewer and tailor from childhood on who now works at the highest levels of the menswear garment industry, yet still delights in making his own clothes, dissecting exceptional garments to see what he can learn, and evangelizing the tailor's skills, before they vanish forever, to whoever will listen. If this strikes a chord, you'll be as appreciative as I am (and maybe as astonished as I felt that I'd missed this unparalleled treasure trove up til now). Just one example of the riches I found there: How to iron a shirt by hand, from a master bespoke shirt-maker, in many pix (plus a video!), all translated from the Russian by… JDiduch.



Enjoy!

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Testing Amazon

Greetings, all; new to this blogging-amazon feature, so here's a test:
I've been posting stuff here:
http://makingtrouserswithdpc.blogspot.com/

Before I launched this amazon link, I posted info about the new cover and DVD table of contents; a note about why there's no fitting in my book, and most recently, a DVD preview video clip, covering what's on the disk, how to use it, and how to tweak Adobe Reader to get the most out of the DVD.

Enjoy! Be back soon…

Monday, April 6, 2009

DVD Preview


Introducing Making Trousers: The DVD from David Coffin on Vimeo.

For a full-size view of this preview video, go to

Making Trousers: The DVD

…which is the permanent home for info on using the DVD. This site you're on now will remain the active blog for all other posts relating to the book, and to trouser-making.

I'm able to post this preview because the DVD master has been finalized and shipped, meaning that the package is DONE! Yay…!!!
So, it's all over but the waiting:)

I'll do my best to keep this space interesting and active while we wait; please feel free to chime in!

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Um, where's the fitting info?




An important point, probably not well-enough made yet:

My book covers only construction details, including many pocket, waistband, closure and other interior details and variations, and there's no fitting info in it at all. It starts with the assumption that you've got a well-fitting basic pant pattern already.

I know that many sewers still struggle with pant fitting, but I decided to leave fitting out of my work since it is so extensively covered in virtually all the other pants books out there, none of which go into construction to the extent I think necessary, and none of which offer a detailed look at the wide range of RTW and custom pant-making details, as I consider essential to well-informed results. If I'd included fitting, I'd never have had room for all the variations I wanted to include, and I'd have been merely repeating what other more expert fitting and pattern-drafting authorities have already well said!

If you've got any pants that already fit you well enough, stay tuned for my video on easily copying them.

No doubt many of you have already looked elsewhere for help with your pants-fitting questions, but I've heard only good things about the two fitting books I recommend and give links to in the widget at right: Don McCunn's pattern drafting book (and his online classes and Yahoo group about pattern making), and Pati Palmer's book on pants.

My own solution was simply to pay a local expert to help me come up with a fitting pants sloper, one-to-one and once-and-for-all, since I didn't want to be bogged down in fitting hassles; I just wanted to get busy with the fun part: making them! And as for writing about pants, what I wanted to do was cover all the stuff that I haven't seen elsewhere, not just rehash the basics.

If fitting remains the main thing you struggle with about making pants, sorry to disappoint! I hope you'll take a look at my book and DVD anyway!

And by all means feel free to post fitting questions or comments here, if you like. I may have an opinion or link that could help.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Cover Update, more details




Here's the current state of the cover for Making Trousers; I'll post the whole thing, back, front and flaps, asap.

The DVD contents is also pretty much set; here's the TOC:

DVD Contents

Bonus Chapter: Keyhole Buttonholes

Video Tutorials:

Cutting Out Tips
Slant Pocket Variations 1
Slant Pocket Variations 2
Slant Pocket Variations 3
Piped Pocket
Side Pockets: Women’s Experiment
Finishing Front Pockets: Men’s Experiment
Welt Pocket: Men’s Experiment
Button Fly 1
Button Fly 2
Button Fly: Men’s Casual
Shortening Zippers: Men’s Experiment
Zipper Fly: Men’s Experiment
Zipper Fly: Women’s Experiment
Hooks: Men’s Experiment
Eyes: Men’s Experiment
Hook-and-Eye Tip
Cut-On Front Bands: Men’s Casual
Cut-On Back Bands: Men’s Casual
Shaped Band 1: Women’s Experiment
Shaped Band 2: Women’s Experiment
Shaping Tabs: Men’s Experiment
Tabbed Bands 1: Men’s Experiment
Tabbed Bands 2: Men’s Experiment
Tabbed Bands 3: Men’s Experiment
Back Bands: Men’s Experiment
Finishing: Men’s Experiment
Adjustable Waists
Hemostat Tip
Sewing On a Button
Keyhole Buttonholes
Stitching Tips

RTW- & Custom-Garment Galleries

Project (or Author's)-Garment Galleries

Printable Patterns

Sources, Further Reading & Extended links


The videos, of course, are the most obviously interesting part, and as you can see, there are a LOT of them; nearly 2 hours worth. They were intended to be simple demos of the book techniques, but turned out more like documentaries of the projects I settled on as sample garments for the book techniques. And since I couldn't resist trying out variations and new ideas as I made these, the videos turned into more of a sequel than a retelling.

The still-picture galleries were a big help to have available as the book pages developed. Basically, every time a page layout issue made me wish a picture could be shown bigger, or that more pictures could be included without running over the page limits, I would simply remember that I could put whatever images I wanted, as big as possible, on the DVD. So, I was able to include a quite huge collection, over 180 large images, including details of many RTW and custom-made garments that aren't mentioned at all in the book.

These garment-interior images, which basically come from me rummaging around in my own and other people's closets and collections, and taking snaps, reveal the vast range of finishing techniques and details designers of generally very expensive garments (plus some interesting every-day stuff, too—my contribution) choose to include in their wares; very instructive, I think, for folks choosing to make their own. I'm planning to post some of these here, with commentary, and will encourage readers to post their own detail images, with questions and comments, of course.

Overall, my hope for this blog is that it can become a forum of sorts, after the book is out, where readers and I can share current projects and techniques, tips and sources, inspirations, links, and whatever else seems fun and useful to folks who like to make great clothes. Before the book arrives, I'll post preview snippets, teasers and supplemental tidbits, and welcome any and all comments and questions.

Thanks to everyone who bothers to read this; I hope you'll join me!

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Coming Soon!



So, work is wrapping on this book/DVD package that I've been creating over the last year or so, a massive update and expansion on the CD-book I made a while back, On Making Pants, and I'm SO looking forward to telling everyone more about it. With this post, I'm actually just creating the blog, so I can include the link along with the dozens of other links that will be on the DVD-ROM packaged with the book. Details, video clips and blog-only content VERY soon! Thanks for looking:)

Above is the placeholder image you'll find at amazon for the package; the real thing'll be MUCH nicer looking, I promise!